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Thread: Regulator By-pass Switch

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  1. #1
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
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    Default Regulator By-pass Switch

    Had a close one just the other day involving a by-pass switch.
    The set up was on a primary meter point, one of the CTs went bad
    went up to open switch, and the spring did not engage the foot plate
    just set there arcing a little,no big deal just closed it right back in.
    Decided to put a short jumper across the high side of the switch,OK.
    myself and another journeyman go up and we start to put the jumper on
    "with shot guns of course" and thats when things get interesting!The whole top side of the switch falls apart,he has his side barley in the clamp
    and my side, the wire is wedged between the shot gun and the clamp.
    The whole top side of the switch just fell apart...The epoxy that holds the
    insulators to the mounting bracket, Just gave it up! So there we are looking at each other like the whole world just went to ****.
    Our Foreman on the ground called service opps. and had them dump the circiut. We were in a bind to say the least..
    I'd have to say if you have any of those switches out there,that you try to open them from the ground first ..

  2. #2
    krptman1 Guest

    Default bad cut outs

    I wouldn't suggest opening these from the ground. If you can get a truck to the pole as you had I would give it a visual inspection. I would bet that it was an A.B. Chance cut out that broke on you.?

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
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    USA
    Posts
    1,239

    Wink Blade switch

    Quote Originally Posted by krptman1 View Post
    I wouldn't suggest opening these from the ground. If you can get a truck to the pole as you had I would give it a visual inspection. I would bet that it was an A.B. Chance cut out that broke on you.?
    I know what you are saying about the cutouts we should start a thread just on them. Here's a link on the switch but the one he was using had porcelain insulators. http://www.hubbellpowersystems.com/p...5-0011RevA.pdf

  4. #4
    Join Date
    May 2005
    Location
    Baton Rouge ,La
    Posts
    991

    Default The ones we have

    had problems with, we found where the blade makes contact, has two spring type contacts on each side of the blade. They were weak and not making good contact, causing the switch to over heat and the epoxy the insulator was glued with to fail. Yall might be having the same problem ? I will check to see which co. made em and the type.

    Koga

    Just wanted to add we are fixing to do an infra red inspection and probably will find more with these type switches on our trunk feeders. I'll let ya know when I hear.
    Ok the switches have Kearny on the box and are made by Cooper. 600 amp and 900 amp both. So just a heads up if yall run across these.
    Last edited by Koga; 01-29-2008 at 06:44 PM.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    2,542

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by ivanho View Post
    Had a close one just the other day involving a by-pass switch.
    The set up was on a primary meter point, one of the CTs went bad
    went up to open switch, and the spring did not engage the foot plate
    just set there arcing a little,no big deal just closed it right back in.
    Decided to put a short jumper across the high side of the switch,OK.
    myself and another journeyman go up and we start to put the jumper on
    "with shot guns of course" and thats when things get interesting!The whole top side of the switch falls apart,he has his side barley in the clamp
    and my side, the wire is wedged between the shot gun and the clamp.
    The whole top side of the switch just fell apart...The epoxy that holds the
    insulators to the mounting bracket, Just gave it up! So there we are looking at each other like the whole world just went to ****.
    Our Foreman on the ground called service opps. and had them dump the circiut. We were in a bind to say the least..
    I'd have to say if you have any of those switches out there,that you try to open them from the ground first ..
    Need a lil more info here........... what step was the reg on when you tried to bypass it? iF IT WAS ANYTHING OTHER THAN NEUTRAL you was gonnabe inna jam regardless( I bleve they call this circulating current) and makes for a spectacular light show.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Aug 2002
    Location
    Buffalo
    Posts
    3,000

    Default

    wise words from Pootnaigle. never ever close the by-pass on a regulator without it being in nuetral, look for a nuetral light in the control box and the dial at zero. a nuetral indicator meter can also be used. make sure you place it between source and load not between source load and the other bushings, its not meant for full voltage. if the regulator is in nuetral both sides of the by-pass switch are at the same potential. you shouldn't pick up any arc at all while closing the switch. with a regulator just one step off raise or lower its the worst situation you can possibly have if you attemt to close the by-pass

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Jan 2008
    Location
    U.S.A
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    28

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Pootnaigle View Post
    Need a lil more info here........... what step was the reg on when you tried to bypass it? iF IT WAS ANYTHING OTHER THAN NEUTRAL you was gonnabe inna jam regardless( I bleve they call this circulating current) and makes for a spectacular light show.
    These were being used on a primary meetering point.
    We needed to change out one of the PTs..
    I can see Koga's point , about the arcing and heating up the epoxy..



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