View Full Version : A little tip
bren guzzi
05-03-2013, 05:40 PM
If your using these type of intermediate poles.. A little tip. Tape the four wraps onto the rubber .. It makes life easier.. Lift the wire. Drop in onto the rubber with the tapped wraps. And everything will go together sweet as a nut. :D... Nice day again.. Think we're having our summer. :eek:
Lineman North Florida
05-03-2013, 06:15 PM
We call them dog bones, they make a cushion clamp that does not require armor rods, have you seen that style?
bren guzzi
05-03-2013, 06:26 PM
We call them dog bones, they make a cushion clamp that does not require armor rods, have you seen that style?
No I haven't.. And if we had them. We'd probably have a different name over here. :D
Lineman North Florida
05-03-2013, 06:35 PM
No I haven't.. And if we had them. We'd probably have a different name over here. :D You are probably right about that :D you'll see them sooner or later and you will probably be like we were at first, a little skeptical, but after you install one you'll like it.
We have always just placed the wire directly into the insulator (k-line universal ) with no type of wrap and in over 20 years no issue. What is the reason for the wraps?
bren guzzi
05-03-2013, 08:42 PM
We have always just placed the wire directly into the insulator (k-line universal ) with no type of wrap and in over 20 years no issue. What is the reason for the wraps?
They strengthen the wire where it's most susceptible to damage. And also allows us to increase span lengths.
neil macgregor
05-04-2013, 05:15 AM
Our lads will be using oppc conductor up in donegal this summer
So ill let them know your tip
Im off to Nottingham on monday to train 25 polish
Oh the feckin joys of it
They strengthen the wire where it's most susceptible to damage. And also allows us to increase span lengths.
How long are your typical spans?
bobbo
05-04-2013, 07:17 AM
We have always just placed the wire directly into the insulator (k-line universal ) with no type of wrap and in over 20 years no issue. What is the reason for the wraps?
Your one of the few properties that I havent seen armour rod on aluminum. AEP, Ameren and alot of other utilities, if you hand tie, armour rod has to be on the wire. With load, heat and cold, frequency vibration the weakest point is where the wire is on the glass. I have worked your property and I have seen a lot of automatics tied on on the glass. Some places they will make you put dampeners three feet out both sides. When you are working 14.4/ 25490 or 19.9/ 34.5 or transmission. The hertz vibrates the wire on the glass 60 times per second. So if you dont pt any protection, armor rod, shoe clamp with rubber, that wire will cut in two where its clipped or tied. I never thought wire moved until I worked storm where it was 45 below. The frequency vibration on the guys made them sing like a guitar, and they will sing the tighter the guys will sing, higher. I think it has to with voltage, load and weather. 2400/ 4160, 4800 delta I havent seen armour rod or preform ties. But when I clip the higher voltages I always had armour rod and dampeners. Plus you guys have alot of tree wire and hendrix cable where you dont have bare wire. The new wire that we are installing nowadays you have to protect it also, its real small strands and compressed, you have to pocketbook grip the wire, its different. But supposedly ALCOA says it carries 9 times the load of old wire. Very fragile small strands, very compressed.
Your one of the few properties that I havent seen armour rod on aluminum. AEP, Ameren and alot of other utilities, if you hand tie, armour rod has to be on the wire. With load, heat and cold, frequency vibration the weakest point is where the wire is on the glass. I have worked your property and I have seen a lot of automatics tied on on the glass. Some places they will make you put dampeners three feet out both sides. When you are working 14.4/ 25490 or 19.9/ 34.5 or transmission. The hertz vibrates the wire on the glass 60 times per second. So if you dont pt any protection, armor rod, shoe clamp with rubber, that wire will cut in two where its clipped or tied. I never thought wire moved until I worked storm where it was 45 below. The frequency vibration on the guys made them sing like a guitar, and they will sing the tighter the guys will sing, higher. I think it has to with voltage, load and weather. 2400/ 4160, 4800 delta I havent seen armour rod or preform ties. But when I clip the higher voltages I always had armour rod and dampeners. Plus you guys have alot of tree wire and hendrix cable where you dont have bare wire. The new wire that we are installing nowadays you have to protect it also, its real small strands and compressed, you have to pocketbook grip the wire, its different. But supposedly ALCOA says it carries 9 times the load of old wire. Very fragile small strands, very compressed.
We mainly run 336 or 556 straight alum for our phases and 336 ACSR or 3/0 AA tensioned neutral on all of our main feeders. The voltages range from 4160 to 27.6 on our distribution and 44 on our sub transmission and we don't install any kind of damper or armour rod with no problems. We generally sag our lines on the tight side. We don't install any tree wire, all of our primary is bare.
bobbo
05-05-2013, 08:05 AM
Every one of those clamps you guys had. Every time I messed with the them especially that fiber optic static where you put the armour rod, then that crazy wrap before the rubber boot. Then the rubber boot. Then the clamp. you put it all together and you put the clamb shell altogether and you have a quarter thread to crush that clamp on. Whats your trick in crushing that clamp. I have tried big vice grips. But I always resort to putting the nut on without the spring and all the accompanying stuff you get with it. Tighten it down and hold the clamp. Then unscrew the nut. And hopefully I have enough thread to put all the hardware on. Its the same process every time. If you got a better method i would appreciate it.
bren guzzi
05-05-2013, 08:19 AM
Every one of those clamps you guys had. Every time I messed with the them especially that fiber optic static where you put the armour rod, then that crazy wrap before the rubber boot. Then the rubber boot. Then the clamp. you put it all together and you put the clamb shell altogether and you have a quarter thread to crush that clamp on. Whats your trick in crushing that clamp. I have tried big vice grips. But I always resort to putting the nut on without the spring and all the accompanying stuff you get with it. Tighten it down and hold the clamp. Then unscrew the nut. And hopefully I have enough thread to put all the hardware on. Its the same process every time. If you got a better method i would appreciate it.
We've haven't had any issues.. They sit in the clamp nicely for us. As long as you exactly centre the rubber before you start. Because the wraps form an hour glass shape if installed correctly . The clamps fit easily. :eek:
bren guzzi
05-05-2013, 09:15 AM
How long are your typical spans?
Sorry lewy missed your reply.. With this wire " without the armour wraps " span length are around 100 yards.. With the wraps you can increase the span lengths to 120 yards. So over the whole line it probably saves 20 or thirty poles. That doesn't sound like a great financial saving and it isn't but its more about reducing the impact of the route on the land... " environmentally " Also every pole we plant is a pole the farmers have to negotiate " on thier land "
" SO EVERY LITTLE HELPS ".
Pootnaigle
05-05-2013, 10:20 AM
uMMMMM NOT TO MENTION AN EXTRA180 FEET OF WIRE ONNA 3 PHASEline
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