Guying

[Mike-E]

I was wondering if anyone had any techniques that work for determining guy lengths, without using the pathagreon theory( "a" squared plus "b" squared equals "c" squared). I have a hard time doing the math as fast as the foreman wants the guy ready to go. Any advice would be very helpful.

[otpig2]

Hey Mike-E
We got a chart at work that was put together that gives length of guy for different heights of pole
and different guy leads
I'll make a copy an see if i can post it

[Orgnizdlbr]

Measure distance from the ground to guy attachment, measure lead, calculate the hypotenuse, works every time.....

[harley]

If you have the room - 1 foot out for every foot up

[graybeard]

By our standards the insulator(johny ball or guy strain) have to be a min. of 10ft from grd. To waste the least amount of wire we make up the top guy & then subtract what ever the spacing is on the way down. Don't know if this will halp but OTPIG2s chart sounds like a quick referance.

[otpig2]

This is the guy length chart
it saves on the math
WE don't put in johney balls in guy wire here
so if you need to you'll have the insert it where needed

[dbrown20]

I was wondering if anyone had any techniques that work for determining guy lengths, without using the pathagreon theory( "a" squared plus "b" squared equals "c" squared). I have a hard time doing the math as fast as the foreman wants the guy ready to go. Any advice would be very helpful.

Mike, if the guy is staked and you are framing the pole on the ground step the lengths of the guy stake from the ground line of the pole. From there step the lengths to the point on the pole where the guy attaches. That will be your approximated guy length. dbrown20

[Squizzy]

If you have the room - 1 foot out for every foot up


Yep thats the easiest way gives you 45 degrees every time when it can be used, otherwise we use out-rigger stays or an aerial stay to the next pole and take it from there....

[RWD]

I've staked a few miles of line and always found it interesting when looking at other systems. Outriggers I'd assume are what we call sidewalk guys. We rane the numbers and found that the olny benifit to the sidewalk guy is to keep you from hitting your head if you walk under it. It is actuall better to put a guy 5 feet from the pole than to install a sidewalk guy. the stress of on the pole simply moves higher to where the pole is weaker. In swamps or real soft soil it is not unheard of to see the pole sink deeper into the ground with the extra force on the butt of the pole. I actually saw one guy intalled by company personell in a country I won't name that was banjo'd it had an attachment at the top and one at ground level with a 4' pipe in the middle. I'd guess they figure the pole would not bend .....

RWD

[Sno10]

Have you ever vectored/scaled anything?

1"=1' or 1"=2' or 1"=3' or 1"=100' or 1"=5280' or 1"=10 miles and so on and so forth. You can put inch marks on the inside of the bin door both vertical and horizontal with a sharpy pen so it is there for many poles down the road. After that just assign a scale that you want if you know the height of the guy attachment off the ground and the length of the lead. Put your folding rule on those representative inch marks vertical and horizontal to get the length of the hypotenius/guy length in inches and then multiply by what ever scale you used.

If you know your height attachment and lead length this method/secret takes about as long as it takes to unfold and fold your folding ruler. Also remember the smaller the scale the more accurate you will be so use the smallest scale possible that the inside of the bin door will allow. 1"=1' is alot more accurate than lets say 1"=10'. Have a bin door that has 30 inch+ tall and 30" wide. On a 1"=3' scale i can figure up to a 90 ft attachment point height with up to a 90 ft lead with in a foot or so of actual length. Never hurts to add a few feet of wire in my eyes.

Also a folding rule makes a perfect 90 degree angle. You can get pretty close by scaling with just that. I've made a triangle with my folding rule many times when the bin door was to far away and have come real close to actual guy length.

Haven't done pathegoreans for figuring guys for years.Basic vectoring and scaleing is all my preferred method is.

The chart is a good idea also. That will for surely make short work of figuring guy lengths. Put that on a sticker and put it inside your hard hat so it is always with ya.

[Squizzy]

I've staked a few miles of line and always found it interesting when looking at other systems. Outriggers I'd assume are what we call sidewalk guys. We rane the numbers and found that the olny benifit to the sidewalk guy is to keep you from hitting your head if you walk under it. It is actuall better to put a guy 5 feet from the pole than to install a sidewalk guy. the stress of on the pole simply moves higher to where the pole is weaker. In swamps or real soft soil it is not unheard of to see the pole sink deeper into the ground with the extra force on the butt of the pole. I actually saw one guy intalled by company personell in a country I won't name that was banjo'd it had an attachment at the top and one at ground level with a 4' pipe in the middle. I'd guess they figure the pole would not bend .....

RWD



Yeah we have some wonderfully bent poles around here where the outrigger has just bent the pole right over. I was cranking up the stay wire the other day and right where the outrigger was attached to the pole it made a very loud cracking noise....

[Stinger]

up here in the high density populated cities in New England, we take what we can, in most cases your lucky if it is a four foot lead, so we end doing a lot of sidewalk guys.if you ever have the chance to visit the Boston area, you will see a lot of leaning poles because we can not get easements for the guys, so the poles won't have any guys at all. a lot of slack span dead-ends and angles. In the rural areas we pretty much try to go by the rules of proper guying.

[old lineman]

up here in the high density populated cities in New England, we take what we can, in most cases your lucky if it is a four foot lead, so we end doing a lot of sidewalk guys.if you ever have the chance to visit the Boston area, you will see a lot of leaning poles because we can not get easements for the guys, so the poles won't have any guys at all. a lot of slack span dead-ends and angles. In the rural areas we pretty much try to go by the rules of proper guying.

Getting a proper lead is often impossible. What to do?
If instead of using a screw anchor you hired a backhoe and laid in a 'dead man' (railraod tie) with the anchor hole through the tie or the guy encircling the dead man down six feet you would have a good foundation.
Once this is done have a redi-mix truck pour in a yard or so of concrete on top of it nothing will move.
It might seem expensive, but if several structrues on the project were done at the same time the costs per structure wouldn't be so bad. The outcome is far more eye appealing and the sag will remain as installed.
I believe one cause for losing the sag is because often the pole settles into the ground. A couple of things can be done to avoid this also.
1.After the auger has done it's thing, remove the rest of the loose soil with the spoon. A pole settling just a couple of inches and the guys aligning themselves can cause an eye sorethat's impossible to rectify.
2. If the load is heavy (severe corner, heavy conductor, multiple circuits, etc. then simply pour some of that concrete mentioned earlier into the pole hole and let is cure before setting the pole.
If you haven't got redi-mix for the job just throw into the hole a couple of bags of pre-mix and break open the bags. Add some water and leave it until the next day voila a solid base for the pole.
Increasing the foot print of the pole will do wonders to prevent settling.
The Old Lineman

[Outlaw Lineman]

Doesn't hurt to actually tamp the hole BEFORE setting the pole either.

[keithz]

Height+one Third Of The Lead